All Years Before 2002 $35

All Years After 2002 $30

This is a universal seal kit meant to repair almost any hydroboost unit produced. Most hydroboost units are manufactured by Bendix and nearly all the seals in the units have remained the same. The pictures below are from a 2005 Chevy 1500 4x4 Truck, however, your unit may look a little different. Note**The meal pieces in the kit are not explained in this repair manual. As you go along through the repair and find any metal pieces that match the ones in the kit please match up and replace as necessary. Be very careful with these pieces as you may have to reuse a metal piece if not included in the kit. We do not have any other parts other than what is provided in the kit so make sure you are working in an environment where you can find small pieces if you drop them. We are also including the manufacturers installation instructions that follow step by step procedures from Bendix but don't offer the pictures here in this sheet. If you have any questions regarding the installation or need help please let us know so we can help. Remember this install sheet for reference only. Your unit may look different but the steps should be about thesame.

How To: Hydroboost Rebuild

Do you have power steering fluid leaking from the weep hole where the hydroboost unit bolts to the brake master cylinder? This kit is sure to fix it!

Before you begin unbolting anything from the hydroboost, with your truck turned off, apply the brake pedal fully a few times. This depletes any reserve pressure from the accumulator.

Disconnect the brake master cylinder from the hydroboost unit by removing these two nuts. I use a 15mm wrench:

Here you can either just crack these connections loose, or completely disconnect them. The steel lines can be tight if they have never been removed before. You'll want some rags/paper towels as these three lines will leak some fluid when they're disconnected.

Now move into the cab and look where the brake pedal connects to the hydroboost. There are 4 nuts to remove. The threaded stems are long so you'll need a 15mm deep socket.

Look straight up at the end of the brake pedal and find the metal clip to remove. I use a flathead screwdriver to to pry it over top of the pin, then slide it off.

Once that clip is off, you can simultaneously slide the electrical connector and the hydroboost rod off of the brake pedal.

Now from the engine bay, you can pull the hydroboost unit away from the firewall. You'll have to push the brake master cylinder out of the way. I pulled up on it slightly and pushed it towards the fuse box, while pushing the hydroboost towards the engine and pulling away from the firewall. Once the t readed studs were out of t e firewall, twisting the hydroboost counter-clockwise 90 degrees helped to get around the other obstacles in the engine bay. It should come out without too muchhassle.

Take the unit somewhere decently clean to work on. You're dealing with hydraulics and parts that have tight machining tolerances. You don't want dirt/debris getting into the unit.

If you have the appropriate Torx socket, use it. Otherwise, use a 12-point 3/8" box end wrench to remove the 5 "star-shaped" bolts. These can be fairly snug. I had to tap on my wrench with a hammer to crack them loose.

Once it starts opening up, a good bit of fluid trapped inside the unit will spill out. So prepare with paper towels or whatever you use to soak up the mess.

Be cautious of any parts springing out. Here is the unit in halves:

Take the half on the right, and look into this hole. About 2 inches in is the bad seal and all you can see is the inside lip of it.

I use two small flathead screwdrivers to get the seal out. You dont need to be gentle on the seal since you have a new one, but be gentle on the housing as to not scratch or ding it up. ** If you scratch anything inside your unit will never seal and leak forever!

Just to check, I slid both old and new seals onto the piston to see if I could feel a difference. The new one thankfully fit much more snug and felt solid!

Install the new seal into the housing. Be sure you put it in the correct direction with the lips facing the piston!

It can be tricky getting the seal fully seated. Just be sure when you have it in that it is all even and smooth. You should be able to see about 1/16" of the lip all around.

Once the new seal is in, you can start re-assembling. If any parts sprung out, be sure to p t them back correctly. The yellow spring goes into this small hole. There is also a small valve that can dislodge itself, my red arrow is pointing to this. My middle finger is covering some of it up. If it fell out, be sure to put it back in the correct way with the three dots facing out.

Put the unit back together in reverse order

Riding On Empty

From the thrifty road-tripper to the broke college kid, lots of people drive while their fuel needle hovers close to the E. The societal consensus is that driving with consistently low fuel levels can mess your vehicle up. Dirt and other undesirable sediments that come into your tank with gasoline settles to the bottom of said tank. When running on empty, your automobile will shake up this concentrated dirt, eventually pulling it into the fuel line. Dirty, semi-clogged fuel lines equates to you spending more money on replacing those lines along with the fuel filter. The strain can also cause a premature failure in the fuel pump, which is another piece that is both expensive and mandatory for keeping the car running. Additionally, having dirt in the lines can lead to dirt passing your fuel filter. The result? Damage to the internals of your combustion machine. Our advice? If you only fill a half tank at a time, fill the tank up (once) completely then refill it when it’s 50 percent gone. This small change can save headaches in the future.

Resting Hands On Stick Shifts

Another common habit that plagues the best of us is the practice of resting your palms on the top of the gear selector. This move has been debated in the automotive industry, but our policy is to not take the chance. In theory, constant pressure on your shifter causes unnecessary wear on your transmission. Although a neutral rest on the knob may do little damage, the slightest pressure in any direction puts undue stress on the sliders. The result? Your shifting and downshifting will become more strained until eventually the entire transmission stops operation. That’s a very expensive fix! Our advice? Rest the hand elsewhere.

Improper Warm Ups

During the freezing season, many of us are impatient with warming up the car. Starting a car in a cold state means that your oil pump hasn’t had the chance to lubricate all the parts involved in your combustion engine. When you floor the gas pedal these ungreased metal parts take additional strain. Sure, your car will warm up quicker, but the long-term cost of a new engine is ridiculous. Additionally, extended warm up times for your car can be similar in the damage department. Our advice? Let the car warm up for half of a minute, then drive it carefully. Travelling and doing it gingerly is the best habit to have for winter driving.

Ignoring The Parking Brake

Typically, people use their parking brake only when leaving their car in an incline situation. Not only does that lever keep your standard transmission from going places, it also helps your automatic car’s transmission! When you park on any incline and ignore your parking brake, your transmission suffers. Why? Parking pawl. No, that isn’t a typo. A parking pawl is a small metal pin that locks up your transmission. This little guy is vital for keeping your car from going places without your permission. Applying the parking brake not only eases the the burden on the pawl, it also adds increased security against your vehicle rolling away!

These habits are both detrimental and and easy to fix. Pirate Jack can help with brake rotor replacement and other replacement auto parts, but we are more interested in keeping you safe! For any muscle car part needs, though, we can also help. Contact us now to see how we can improve your hot rod!

Wear And Tear

Excessively riding your brakes over stretches of time can cause a variety of problems. The most common consequence of this practice is abundant friction. That friction is expected; your brakes should last you around thirty thousand miles for the front brakes and almost double that for the rear brakes. People who religiously ride the brakes may be replacing their braking system components four times as often. In financial terms, this can be seen as a very unnecessary expense. More importantly, your safety can be compromised. As we have mentioned in previous blogature, your brakes heat up significantly during periods of heavy use. In excess temperatures, components such as your rotors can take damage and warp. Parts that are not meant to withstand this heat (such as seals) can also fail, shear, and melt. In the long run, these newish issues can put both you and your wallet at risk. Our performance brake rotors can mitigate and displace brake heat significantly, but over time damage will be done.

Stopability

Science can explain the higher risks of excessive brake use. Remember when you were coming down from the mountains or were towing a heavy trailer and your brakes felt less effective towards the bottom? Brake fluid is used to translate the force from your brake pedal into pressure for applying the stopping mechanisms. Under extreme heat, this brake fluid boils, introducing gas to your brake line. This gas is worthless for applying pressure. Therefore, your brakes will either work in a much reduced capacity or fail entirely. Brake failure is a major issue that can lead to dire consequences.

When it comes to brake conversion kits, Pirate Jack has you covered. We focus on aftermarket muscle car parts and high-quality brake kits. In our experience, any activity that hurts your brakes should be avoided at all costs. Braking constantly can be comforting for the average safe driver, but in the long run it can be damaging to you, your car, and your finances. The importance of having proper brakes cannot be stressed enough! If you’re looking for performance brake rotors and pads, don’t hesitate to contact us today for the advice and equipment you need!

After the indirect ban on their 426 hemi, Chrysler’s racing director put forth a boycott on NASCAR events. The result? Fans stayed home. The quickest, strongest vehicles and drivers (including Richard Petty) were the show people came to see. NASCAR was seeing a huge loss in profits and people were quickly becoming desperate to rectify the situation. July of 1965 saw a begrudging acceptance of Mopar racers back into the fold. Ultimately, NASCAR’s “stock” car racing rule allowed the 426 hemi back into the racing circuit due to its regular production for the general public. A lesser quality of this V8 behemoth was made for the general public, and that fact let Mopar sneak back in. This led to a reemergence of Chrysler’s engines dominating the racing scene.

The early 1970s saw more innovation with the emergence of the Direct Connection. This program was a catalog that offered a plethora of approved replacement and aftermarket parts for Chrysler vehicles. The late 1980s introduced more changes as the Direct Connection became known as Mopar Performance Parts. Today this entity provides high-quality parts for:

• Chrysler
• Jeep
• Fiat
• Eagle
• Plymouth
• Dodge   =>

Today’s Mopar enthusiasts will defend the business with religious devotion. With a rich history of innovation, design, and winning, the Motor Parts Company has come a long ways. Their tradition lives on in our store through our quality performance brake rotors and muscle car parts. Trusted and proven, let Mopar take the burden of your car’s performance needs. Contact us today for solutions to your car’s unique style and requirements!

The late 1920s saw the purchasing of Dodge by Chrysler. The overwhelming size and demand of Chrysler for parts manufacturing and distribution led to the formation of the Chrysler Motor Parts Corporation. Funnily, the term Mopar during this time was used for antifreeze only. Having this term trademarked was a step in the right direction for Chrysler, but they needed more for appropriate brand recognition. The end of the 1930s saw the introduction of MoPar as the official designation for the CRMC. The Motor Parts division was again changed for the sake of product branding.

The 1960s and 70s saw the era of muscle cars. Baby boomers were now young adults with cash in the pocket and the mind focused on speed. 1955 saw the introduction of the Chrysler C-300. This behemoth boasted a powerful engine with 8 cylinders and 331 cubic inches. At the time, it was the strongest, fast car available and no other company could match the speed. The year 1964 brought Mopar’s Race Hemi engine. This newer, stronger beast boasted a 426 cubic inch setup that blew the competition away! People were hailing the hemi as the best combustion engine of all time. This edge gave Chrysler the advantage whenever anyone mentioned drag racing and NASCAR. Ford was snuffed with their racing machines sitting around 165 miles an hour while the new hemi engine stacked into the lower 170s! Chrysler simply dominated the 1964 racing season. 1965 saw Nascar’s new rules outlawing the 426 hemi. The waters were becoming even more choppy for Chrysler and their dominating success.

         "The Waters were becoming even more choppy for Chrysler and their                                                                                                                    
                                                                                                         dominating success"

The muscle car era centers around this desire for flashy exteriors and torque-churning high-performance engines. Next week, we’ll look at the rest of what made Mopar products great. Pirate Jack offers the parts of this giant in the form of master cylinder replacements and brake conversion kits. The quality and history behind these OEM parts aids in our drive for customer satisfaction. Contact us today to see how historical innovation can make your car shine!

Noisiness

The first and most obvious signal of worn out brakes is the audible squeaking that they emit. This squeaking, along with grinding, occurs when the pads are too thin or the rotors are warped/damaged. Don’t worry if your wheels start to squeal — there is a warning tab on the pads that give early warning to replacement needs. However, worry should be applied if those breaks are neglected for too long! Once your pads are worn down sufficiently, the squeaking sounds will be replaced or accompanied by grinding sounds. This is a good indicator that you need brake rotor replacement.

Bad Response Time

A key factor that goes into your car’s brakes is how fast those brakes allow you to stop. Any component in the system that is worn down will lead to inefficiencies in the braking process. A typical issue in this department would be a leak somewhere in the system that causes brake fluid loss. If you notice that the brake pedal travels further and requires more effort to stop, a brake check should be in order.

Pulling/Vibrating

If applying the brakes equates to your car pulling to one side, there is an issue with how evenly your brakes are wearing down. This issue often can be fixed with a brake adjustment. Another loud warning sign is the vibration that occurs when applying the brakes. This interference is often due to warped rotors not being able to apply constant, consistent friction with the pads. Vibration can also be defined as pulsation from braking, whether it be in your hands, in the pedal, or felt in your seat while driving. The common culprit of warped rotors is excessive heat caused by friction. During times of heavy braking, your rotors will heat up and begin to warp. Our inventory of drilled and slotted performance brake rotors helps to increase air circulation to keep the temperatures down.

Warning Lights

Newer vehicles typically have two brake lights that can illuminate. Your Anti-lock braking system light means something with the ABS system is not working properly but can normally function as designed. However, the main brake warning light typically equals brake component failure. If the latter light pops up on your console, don’t ignore it! Braking failures are dangerous and can lead to catastrophic consequences if not quickly rectified.

Having clean, working brakes is of utmost importance for all vehicles. Pirate Jack Hot Rod Restoration is your source for premium rotor replacements and disc brake conversion kits. Our experts have the inventory and knowledge needed to make your car a safe speed machine. Braking systems are our name, convenience and quality are our game. Check out our online store today and contact us to see how we can help make your vehicle shine!

Vacuum Boosters

This device was invented nearly nine decades ago with the intention of shortening stop distances in your vehicle. Vacuum boosters multiply the amount of pressure exerted on the brakes by pulling air out of the chamber with a pump. This action creates a low-pressure system that pushes the diaphragm forward. This couples with the pulling action of the vacuum to multiply the force exerted on the rod that pushes the master cylinder. Having a booster in working condition is essential to properly applying the brakes. If the vacuum is failing, you’ll know it!

Hydraulic Brake Booster

Unlike the vacuum booster, hydraulic brake boosters use hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump to aid in braking procedures. Pressure from the pump is stored in an accumulator, where the stored energy can be transferred to the master cylinder when the brakes are applied. This setup can be particularly handy for vehicles who naturally do not have enough vacuum power to be useful for braking systems. People who drive diesel or supercharged vehicles are much more familiar with hydraulic boosters. Keep in mind that this style relies on the power steering pump — cars without this pump equals no brake boosting.

Whether your vehicle relies on vacuum pressurization or hydraulic pressure, the end result is what matters. Being able to quickly and tirelessly hit the brakes is vital for daily driving. Operating a vehicle without power brakes can be a dangerous prospect. Don’t risk the integrity of your health and your car’s condition. Pirate Jack has the braking components in stock that you need to keep your hot rod safe and styling. Our commitment to high-quality items and simple, accurate instructions for customer ease is our driving force in business.Shop our inventory, then contact us for answers to all of your improvement needs!